Technical difficulty: 2 Endurance: 3 Trip offered: July,August,September
Technical difficulty: 2 Endurance: 3 Trip offered: July,August,September
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To be eligible for this itinerary you should already:

  • have experience with crampons and ice axe
  •  have a good fitness level (400m height gain per hour for several hours)
  • be already acclimatised

If we are moving at good pace we will be able to catch the cable-car from Aiguille du Midi back to Chamonix the same day. If conditions are difficult or the pace is too slow we might find ourselves in need to spend another night at Refuge du Cosmiques and descend with the first cable-car the next morning. In this case the trip will be billed as a 3 day trip.

The ascent and descent route is exposed in places to avalanche danger from large ice-cliffs (seracs). The release of ice avalanches is unpredictable. It is essential that fitness, your ability, and conditions allow you and your guide to move quickly through these hazardous zones. The guide’s appraisal of your competence and route conditions will determine whether the climb can be attempted, or an alternative objective proposed.

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Day 1

Meet up

After doing a gear check at our meeting point in Aiguille du Midi, we take the cable car to the last station. Then, we will go through a glacier and spend the rest of the day at Cosmiques hut (3613m) where we will do some snow-craft exercises. In the evening, we will have dinner and spend the night at the refuge.

Day 2

Summit and return to Chamonix

On the second day, we will start off early for the summit of Mont Blanc. We will cross the Col du Midi Plateau and begin our ascent up by skirting around the North face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. After we will continue towards the North face of Mont Maudit and just below the Col du Mont Maudit we will encounter the steepest, usually icy, section of our climb. Finally, we will traverse southwards to Col de la Brenva and carry on all the way to the summit. We will then return the same way.

  • Guiding fee
  • Group equipment
  • Guest’s lifts/train expenses
  • Guest’s personal equipment
  • Guest’s personal insurance
  • Guest’s accommodation and meals
  • Guide’s accommodation and meals while on the mountain
  1. :

    Did this in July 2017, 1:1 with Cosmin Andron.

    Am not a man of many words, so I’ll keep it short: outstanding, leave hesitation behind and do it!

    Cosmin is a magnificent, experienced, patient and very disciplined guide.
    Felt 100% safe and protected throughout the journey, acted more like a mentor rather than a paid guide, we talked about pretty much everything (he has some must hear stories), introduced me to other guides and their narratives (he basically knows everybody).

    Thank you again, Cosmin, for this experience.

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    1 - 1 Pax
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