- Trip Notes
- Trip Outline
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First day is designed to know each other and practice rock climbing and basic rope-work. We will choose a rock climbing site around Chamonix and we will do one longer or several shorter rock routes in big boots as well as practicing basic rope manoeuvres we will need on Matterhorn. Although a training day it also should be a fun climbing day in its own right.
Arête des Cosmiques
We meet in the morning at Aiguille du Midi and we take the cable car to the last station. Then, we will cross the glacier and do the Arête des Cosmiques – an iconic mixed climb above Chamonix. The objective of this day is to get you slowly acclimatised and work on rope manoeuvres and climbing mixed terrain with crampons.
Alternatively we will climb the normal route on Aiguille du Peigne.
Overnight in Chamonix.
Traversée des Aiguilles d’Entreves / Traversée des Aiguilles Marbrées
Based on route conditions and level of fitness we do one more preparatory climb, this time with access from Italy if the day before we did Arête des Cosmiques.
If the day before we did Aiguille du Peigne we have, today, also the option to do Arête des Cosmiques.
Overnight back in Chamonix
Debriefing and assesment of the main objective’s feasibility: Matterhorn.
Approach to Hornli hut
On the fourth day, we will start off from Chamonix and drive to the town of Tasch where we will leave the car and board the train to Zermatt. Once there we will traverse the city and take the cable car to Schwarzsee from where in 2-3 hours we should be at Hornli hut. A good meal and early night are on the menu for a good rest for the demanding day that follows.
Matterhorn summit attempt and return to Chamonix
After an early breakfast we will leave the hut around 4:00 AM. As this climb is very serious and moving fast and efficient is essential we will have some benchmarks along the way. We aim to reach Solvay hut in normally 2 hours and maximum 2.5 hours. More time than this means the conditions or the team are not optimal for this ascent. The next benchmark is to reach the summit in 5 to 5.5 hours maximum after leaving Hornli hut (so depending when we reached Solvay hut that would leave us another 2.5 to max 3 hours).
From the summit normally the descent takes as long if not longer than the ascent. We will aim to reach Hornli (for a beer and a rest if we are in good time) then Schwarzsee station before 4:00 PM. A late lunch in Zermatt, the train back to Tasch then the drive back to Chamonix just in time for the debrief and a cold beer.
- Guiding fee
- Group equipment
- Guide’s lift expenses for Aiguille du Midi and/or Le Brevent
- Guest’s lifts/train expenses
- Guest’s personal equipment
- Guest’s personal insurance
- Guest’s accommodation and meals
- Guide’s accommodation and meals while on the mountain / at the hut
- Guide and Guest’s travel expenses to Italy and Switzerland
- Guide’s lifts/train expenses in Italy and Switzerland
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