Mont Blanc – the traverse. A 5 day programme designed to maximise the chances of success.
- Trip Notes
- Trip Outline
- The Trip Cost Includes
- The Trip Cost Does Not Include
Overnight at Gouter on way down mandatory to be booked in January. Otherwise Tete Rousse or Nid d’Aigle refuges shall be used (based on availability).
The ascent route is exposed in places to avalanche danger from large ice-cliffs (seracs) and on descent to rockfall above Tete Rousse hut. The release of ice avalanches is unpredictable and the avoidance of rock-fall difficult. It is essential that fitness, your ability, and conditions allow you and your guide to move quickly through these hazardous zones. The guide’s appraisal of your competence and route conditions will determine whether the climb can be attempted, or an alternative objective proposed.
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After doing a gear check at our meeting point in Argentiere we will take the cable car to last station (Argentiere - Longnan - Les Grands Montets) and then descend to the Col des Grands Montets. Here we will revise the use of crampons and ice axe then ascend Petite Aiguille Verte (3512) by the normal route. Also on this day we will review glacier travel and skills. In the afternoon we return to Chamonix.
Alternatively we can go to the Italian side of Mont Blanc and climb the traverse of the Aiguiles Marbrees, glacier travel, Petit Flambeau etc.
We meet in the morning at Aiguille du Midi and we take the cable car to the last station. Then, we will cross the glacier and do the Pointes Lachenal Traverse and spend the rest of the day at Cosmiques hut (3613m). In the evening, we will have dinner and spend the night at the refuge.
Mont Blanc du Tacul / Arrete des Cosmiques / Aiguiles d’Entreves / Aiguille de Toule
Based on Mont Blanc route chosen and level of fitness and / or tiredness we do one more preparatory climb, either Mont Blanc du Tacul, Arrete des Cosmiques, Aiguiles d’Entreves or Aiguille de Toule. Overnight at refuge (whether Cosmiques of Torino)
Debriefing and assesment of the main objective’s feasibility: Mont Blanc.
Mont Blanc summit and traverse
On the fourth day, we will start off early for the summit of Mont Blanc. If we start from Refuge des Cosmiques we will cross the Col du Midi Plateau and begin our ascent up by skirting around the North face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. After we will continue towards the North face of Mont Maudit and just below the Col du Mont Maudit we will encounter the steepest, usually icy, section of our climb. Finally, we will traverse southwards to Col de la Brenva and carry on all the way to the summit.
From the summit we will start the descent by the ‘normal route’ via Dome du Gouter. After a short food-and-drink stop at Refuge du Gouter we will carry on past Refuge Tete Rousse and down to Nid d’Aigle or stop on the way at either Gouter or Tete Rousse.
Return to Chamonix
We will leave the hut and catch the train towards Bellevue and then the cable-car to Les Houches. Debriefing and end of programme
- Guiding fee
- Group equipment
- Guide’s lifts and tram in France
- Guest’s lifts/train expenses
- Guest’s personal equipment
- Guest’s personal insurance
- Guest’s accommodation and meals
- Guide’s accommodation and meals while on the mountain
- Guide and Guest’s lift expenses in Italy if an acclimatisation day via Skyway is chosen
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