Technical difficulty: 4 Endurance: 3 Trip offered: July,August,September
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For the summit day (day 5) the maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:1

For the other days (day 1-3) the maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:2 so you may invite a friend along and share the cost.

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Itineraries

Day 1

Meet-up

First day is designed to know each other and practice rock climbing and basic rope-work. We will choose a rock climbing site around Chamonix and we will do one longer or several shorter rock routes in big boots as well as practicing basic rope manoeuvres we will need on Matterhorn. Although a training day it also should be a fun climbing day in its own right.

Day 2

Arete des Cosmiques

We meet in the morning at Aiguille du Midi and we take the cable car to the last station. Then, we will cross the glacier and do the Arete des Cosmiques – an iconic mixed climb above Chamonix. The objective of this day is to get you slowly acclimatised and work on rope manoeuvres and climbing mixed terrain with crampons.

Day 3

Traversée des Aiguilles d’Entreves / Traversée des Aiguilles Marbrées

Based on route conditions and level of fitness we do one more preparatory climb, this time with access from Italy. Overnight at refuge (whether Cosmiques of Torino) Debriefing and assesment of the main objective’s feasibility: Matterhorn.

Day 4

Approach to Hornli hut

On the fourth day, we will start off from Chamonix and drive to the town of Tasch where we will leave the car and board the train to Zermatt. Once there we will traverse the city and take the cable car to Schwarzsee from where in 2-3 hours we should be at Hornli hut. A good meal and early night are on the menu for a good rest for the demanding day that follows.

Day 5

Matterhorn summit attempt and return to Chamonix

After an early breakfast we will leave the hut around 4:00 AM. As this climb is very serious and moving fast and efficient is essential we will have some benchmarks along the way. We aim to reach Solvay hut in normally 2 hours and maximum 2.5 hours. More time than this means the conditions or the team are not optimal for this ascent. The next benchmark is to reach the summit in 5 to 5.5 hours maximum after leaving Hornli hut (so depending when we reached Solvay hut that would leave us another 2.5 to max 3 hours). From the summit normally the descent takes as long if not longer than the ascent. We will aim to reach Hornli (for a beer and a rest if we are in good time) then Schwarzsee station before 4:00 PM. A late lunch in Zermatt, the train back to Tasch then the drive back to Chamonix just in time for the debrief and a cold beer.
  • Guiding fee
  • Group equipment
  • Guide’s lift expenses for Aiguille du Midi and/or Le Brevent
  • Guest’s lifts/train expenses
  • Guest’s personal equipment
  • Guest’s personal insurance
  • Guest’s accommodation and meals
  • Guide’s accommodation and meals while on the mountain / at the hut
  • Guide and Guest’s travel expenses to Italy and Switzerland
  • Guide’s lifts/train expenses in Italy and Switzerland
  1. :

    I came from Australia all the way to Europe in the hope of climbing some big mountains, the Matterhorn was the main one I wanted to climb and I did it. I couldn’t have done it without Cristina. She is amazing and if I ever get to do this again I will be booking her as my guide. On our way to the hut (the most luxurious hut ever) we walked in hail and snow, the next day we could only practice on the mountain due to half the day snowing but the day after was summit day and the weather was glorious. It was cold on the top and the fingers on my gloves were frozen along with my drinking camel pack but the sun was still shining bright as we crossed the knife edge ridge right at the top. The feeling was amazing crossing that top ridge and it is something I will never forget. Cristina is not only a great guide who makes me feel as safe as possible, especially when we are above 4000m where people are usually not so comfortable but she has helped me create some amazing memories to bring home. Everyone is loving my stories. I cannot say how grateful I am. Thank you.

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  2. :

    An iconic mountain, not technically hard, but demanding nonetheless. Poor judgement, or poor mountain skills could lead to real big disasters (evidenced by the remains of incongruous rappel points scattered across the mountain) – which is why Alpine Style Expeditions and Cosmin as guide is a fantastic choice.

    The Italian and Swiss sides both have their pros and cons (probably about equal overall). The Swiss side is much more expensive, but the hut is great. Also, the weather is generally worse/less predictable from the Italian side. So, even if you intend to climb from the Italian side keep this alternative in mind.

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  • start:
    Group Size: 1 pax
    price: € 2376 /Person

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